The Incredible, Incredible Berger Cookie



The Original Berger cookie

 If you are from Baltimore, or maybe the surrounding region, you have hopefully heard and tried the Berger Cookie.  Produced by the DeBaufre Bakeries in downtown Baltimore, these treats have been around since the early 1800's...yes that is an 18.  Originally founded by one of the Berger brothers, Henry (from Germany) and his three sons George, Henry and Otto, they started selling their baked products in open air markets around town. Eventually they combined their efforts into one bakery, thus Bergers emerged.

The bakery was eventually sold, but continued selling the Berger cookie under its original name.  In 1969, Charles and Benjamin DeBaufre, former employees who started their own bakery, acquired the company and continue to run it today.  They still maintain virtually the same recipe for the acclaimed Berger Cookie that made it famous.

On a recent visit to Baltimore (where I grew up) I stopped into Eddie's Market to get a box of these treats.  That's where it dawned on me, "Why can't I try to make these?" 

 The Berger Cookie is a soft sugar cookie with a dollop of chocolate fudge (not icing) spread on one side.  The fudge is as thick as the cookie itself and has a darker, semi-sweet flavor.  On some of the cookies the fudge has overflowed down the side, which makes the feel even more homemade.  They are extraordinarily rich and, in spite of the fact that you should probably eat only one, you cannot stop.  Some people have compared these to New York's famous Black and Whites, but honestly they are quite different...and, in my opinion, way better.  Try for yourself to see.
To make these, I had to look around for recipes.  I found many online, most of which are from people who are not from Baltimore and are OK with just putting chocolate icing instead of the fudge which is unacceptable.  This recipe came from the King Arthur Flour site, however it was not their recipe, but a response from someone who did not believe theirs had cut the mustard.   I'll admit that my recipe could use some fine tuning, but it was close.



My first shot at the Berger..

 Also, I learned several things from this...  I have never made fudge before and when it says use a candy thermometer...use one.  I thought my instant read thermometer would work, but once it was cooking and needed a temperature of 234°, I found my instant read capped out at 220°... not good.  Then I started using my infra red laser thermometer, which I did not trust, because in spite of boiling and boiling, I could not get the temperature higher.  Thus, the fudge had a much more sugary texture, which was unacceptable.  Second thing is when it says things like boil covered, I should follow the instructions...not be so interested in getting pictures that I neglect to basic things.  Fudge, like candy, is a complete chemistry experiment...everything must be done perfectly, or else.



 
Bergers Cookies

Cookie Ingredients

·         ½ cup butter (=1 stick) at room temperature

·         ¾ teaspoon salt

·         1 teaspoon vanilla extract

·         1 teaspoon baking powder

·         ¾ cup packed light brown sugar (next time I will try pure cane sugar...not sure why they used light brown)

·         1 egg

·         2 cups flour

·         ½ cup milk

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F.

2.  For this recipe do not cream the butter and sugar, just mix it to combine.

 Ok, from this point on, my camera went into "yellow" stage.  I think because this recipe is so old, and the camera decided that the pictures should look sepia-like.  It contributes to the nostalgia effect, if you use your imagination...really hard.
 

 3.  Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine being careful not to over work the dough.

I keep some salt in an old baking powder can, so that it is easy to measure...

 4. Drop level scoops of dough onto a parchment lined baking sheet 2 inches apart. (I admit that in my first batch, the scoops were too large. )

This is too big of a scoop...

  5. Bake the cookies for 12 to 15 minutes or until the edges just begin to turn golden brown.

 

6. After cooled, turn the cookies upside down on the baking sheet in preparation for the addition of the topping.

Chocolate Fudge Topping

Disclaimer- My recipe did not have the semi-sweet "bite" that the Berger Cookies have.  I am not sure how to modify at this point, but I wonder if the chocolate chip / sugar ratio can be changed, and/or less vanilla.  Any fudge experts out there?

Ingredients

1.  In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the sugar, chocolate, 1 1/2 tablespoons of the butter, half-and-half, and corn syrup.

·         2 3/4 cups sugar

·         4 ounces bittersweet chocolate chips 60% cacao

·         3 tablespoons butter, plus more for greasing pan

·         1 cup half-and-half

·         1 tablespoon corn syrup

·         1 tablespoon vanilla extract (next time, I might try 1/2 of this)

 2.  Over medium heat, stir with a wooden spoon until sugar is dissolved and chocolate is melted. Increase heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and boil for 3 minutes.

3.  Remove the cover and attach a candy thermometer to the pot. Cook until the thermometer reads 234 degrees F.  (As you can see here, the photos temporarily cease...that is because I was in panic mode and forgot all about the camera...)

4.  Remove from the heat and add the remaining butter. Do not stir.

5.  Let the mixture cool for 10 minutes or until it drops to 130 degrees F.

6.  Add vanilla, and mix until well-blended and the shiny texture becomes matte.

Finishing touch

1.  Once the fudge begins to thicken, dribble (more like plop) a layer of fudge onto the flat bottom side of each cookie. 

At this point in my experiment, it was 10:30 pm and I was waiting for the fudge to thicken.  I rushed this part and you can see that the fudge is not as thick as the originals.

In spite of my errors, these went over well with the testers.  Now, I must admit that none of the testers were from Baltimore and were instantly intoxicated from the sugar rush.  I will try these again after purchasing a candy thermometer and finding how to modify the fudge recipe.  Let me know what you think...

Try to ensure the fudge layer is the same thickness as the cookie. If the fudge is too thin and oozes off the cookie, give it a minute or two to thicken and try again. Work fast or the fudge will solidify before all the cookies have topping.